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How a Suffolk Farmhouse became a Chapel
Suffolk has
always shown a strong independence of mind. So it is no
surprise to find a very early Independent (or
Congregational) religious body establishing itself in this
area
—
meeting at
first in local dwellings and then, 30 years or so later,
converting this late 16th century farmer’s house into what
is now recognised as a unique religious building. The
congregation had first met in Cookley, just across the River
Blyth, in 1649. Charles I had been executed only six months
before. Cromwell’s parliamentary forces had all but won the
bloody Civil War. In no county had support for his cause
been stronger. But civil and religious turmoil reigned. The
Church of England had been abolished. Within the new
Commonwealth there was much disagreement about what should
succeed it.
These Suffolk puritans
—
heirs of a
hundred years of dissent within the Church
—
called
themselves Independents because they rejected any external
control, would not belong to any organised church. They had
parted from the Church of England but equally they could not
accept the Presbyterianism which had taken its place. They
believed they should be able to worship in their own way,
run their own affairs, choose their own minister, that
worship should be simple and unadorned. They trusted
absolutely in the literal authority of the Bible. They
regarded themselves as ‘God’s Elect’, predestined for
salvation.
The leader of this tendency in eastern Suffolk and Norfolk
at this time was William Bridge. He was an influential
puritan, ordained in the established church, who had fled
from Norwich to the Netherlands to escape Stuart
persecution. After being pastor of the English refugee
church at Rotterdam, he returned to take a prominent place
in the Westminster Assembly of Divines which had been set up
by the Long Parliament to make the English church more
thoroughly Protestant. Some thought this could be done from
within. But Bridge was one of those who believed it could
only be achieved by breaking away and following a separate
path. The congregation here was one of the dozen or so
stimulated from his own church at Yarmouth.
The Yarmouth Church Book, preserved in the Norfolk Record
Office, records that on 21 June 1649 ‘ye saints in and about
Coukley’ asked Bridge’s church for ‘ye right hand of
fellowship in this their great undertaking’. These ‘saints’
were not only devout locals but also several relatively
well-known and ordained men, some of whom had been
contemporaries at Emmanuel College, Cambridge, a centre of
puritan teaching. They were Samuel Manning, who was to be
minister here for nearly 50 years, his brother John, their
close friend Thomas Spatchet, and John Tillinghast, nephew
of the regicide Robert Tichbourne. Tillinghast was a leading
member of the Fifth Monarchists
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who
believed that the Independents should govern the country
until Christ himself returned to take the vacant throne as
King. The first minister here, Samuel Habergham, was of the
same persuasion. During the ten years of the puritan
Interregnum, such ministers held the office of local parish
priests but followed nonconformist practice -
no
surplice, no sign of the cross, no kneeling, and a great
emphasis on preaching, hence the commanding position of
Walpole’s pulpit.
When the Anglican bishops returned to power with Charles II,
the clergy were required to conform to the new restrictive
Act of Unformity. A great many Independents and other
dissenters refused and were expelled from their livings.
Nonetheless they went on preaching (sometimes under licence)
in their own or other houses. As a result they suffered
under one of the most severe campaigns of religious
repression in English history: surprise raids on dissenting
meetings by the magistrates’ constables, imprisonment and
heavy fines. The Mannings of Walpole suffered with them.
These hardships would have been even greater if sympathetic
gentry had not given them shelter and support. In these
parts the Brewster family, ten miles north at Wrentham, one
of whom was an MP in the Long Parliament and had commanded a
‘troop of horse’ in Cromwell’s army, was a noted example.
Another was the remarkable Lady Brooke, four miles south at
Yoxford. She was a theologian who gave Samuel Manning much
succour in hard times. In 1676 he published a sermon in
gratitude to her.
Very slowly the climate of repression improved and
dissenting congregations felt safer. It was possibly this
change which prompted the enlargement of this building and
finally turned the original 16th century building into the
meeting house we see today. They certainly would have been
freer to do so after 1689, when the firmly Protestant king
William III had succeeded the Catholic James II.
Parliament’s Act of Toleration went some way towards giving
dissenters ‘the sunshine of liberty’. They did not, however,
gain the right to university entrance or the holding of
public office for another century and a half. We know that
it was in 1689 that the six trustees of the Walpole
congregation received a lease on this building and an acre
of land from the Corporation of Southwold. The annual rent
was ten shillings. These trustees were local men of some
substance: Richard Whincop,
gentleman, and
Joshua Nunn,
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yeoman, of
Spexhall; Thomas Reeve, yeoman, and Samuel Folkard, grocer,
of Walpole; John Fella, cordwainer, and John Hugman, glover,
of Halesworth. It is not known how the town of Southwold
came to own land in Walpole, but the site was probably part
of the surrounding farm leased at that time to Joseph
Skoulding, named as occupier of this building. It is
possible that the land may once have belonged to the
dissolved Sibton Abbey which had sizeable holdings in
Walpole.
After the end of the 18th century this place did not retain
its prominence. There was a substantial drift of country
people into the towns. And the founding of Halesworth’s own
Independent church in 1793 must also have reduced the
numbers who drove, rode or walked to Walpole on Sundays.
Moreover, the Primitive Methodists opened a chapel here in
the l860s. During its last 100 hundred years this
congregation showed a stubborn determination to survive. If
it had not been so, Victorian opinion that the place was
disgracefully shabby might have prevailed and the building
lost.
In 1958 the congregation had become so small that
trusteeship was passed from local people to the Suffolk
Congregational Union, the chapel being formally closed in
1970. 25 years of uncertainty followed - with at least one
attempt to sell the building as a house -
until in 1995
it came into the care of the new Historic Chapels Trust.
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THE HISTORIC CHAPELS TRUST
was established in 1993 to take into its ownership redundant chapels and
other places of worship in England of outstanding architectural and
historic interest, securing for the public benefit the preservation,
repair and maintenance of such buildings including their contents,
burial grounds and curtilages.
Buildings of all denominations and faiths can be taken into care with
the exception of Anglican churches which are eligible for vesting in the
Churches Conservation Trust. This remit embraces Nonconformist chapels,
Roman Catholic churches, synagogues and private Anglican chapels.
Second only to the barn, the historic chapel is the most threatened
building type in England. Many have been damaged by unsympathetic
conversion or the removal of fittings. Once the Trust has acquired a
building and supervised the necessary repairs, it is made accessible to
the public. Occasional services continue to be held in them. Walpole Old
Chapel was the second property acquired by the trust in 1994. The Trust
is supported locally by a body of Friends. Details can be obtained from
the Chapel or the Director at St George’s Lutheran Church. 55 Alie
Street, London El 8EB.
Website
www.hct.org.uk.
email chapels@hct.org.uk
Registered Charity number 1017321
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